If you’re considering a geothermal retrofit for your home, the three most important factors are the size of your home and yard, its geology and hydrology, and the adequacy of your existing ductwork system to deliver the conditioned air. A geothermal heat pump harvests or replaces heat to condition your home by using an underground loop field as the heat exchanger.

Geology and hydrology

A significant part of a geothermal retrofit is the soil analysis of your yard. Soils have different thermal properties, so finding out what’s below ground, along with your home’s size, will help the installer calculate the size of the loop field you’ll need. If you have access to a body of water, you could opt to have the loop field placed at the bottom of the pond to take advantage of the least expensive way to install a loop field.

The more costly type of installation is a vertical loop field because the field has to go deeply underground. This type is an option if your yard is small or if you have landscaping you don’t want disturbed. The most common installation is horizontal, which may go five feet down or more.

Home and yard size

The HVAC contractor will calculate the heating and cooling load of your home using Manual J, which factors in home size, the energy efficiency of your insulation and windows, and the air infiltration rates. Homes that are more energy efficient and have low air infiltration rates are easier to condition. Improving insulation and sealing air leaks may result in your needing a smaller HVAC system, which results in a smaller loop field and less disturbance of the land in your yard.

Existing ductwork

A geothermal heat pump won’t produce the same hot temperatures that a forced-air combustion furnace does. As a consequence, the ductwork system in your home may need to be enlarged for quiet and comfortable heating and cooling.

For more information on a geothermal retrofit, contact Roth Home & Cooling. We’ve provided HVAC services to Portland area homeowners since 1976.

If a technician finds a crack in your heat exchanger, your furnace will be red-tagged and taken out of service. This is done to prevent the possibility of dangerous levels of carbon monoxide from building up in your home, which is prone to happen if you run a furnace with a cracked heat exchanger. If you’ve got a red-tagged furnace, you’re going to be facing a difficult decision: Should you pay to have the crack in your heat exchanger repaired, or should you replace the furnace altogether?

First, you should be aware that the heat exchanger is a relatively expensive component, typically costing thousands of dollars. If your furnace is relatively new or still under warranty, it’s generally a wiser idea, from a financial standpoint, to have the heat exchanger replaced.

However, if your furnace is aging or it’s no longer under warranty, it might be a better idea to have the entire system replaced. Determining whether or not this is the right move requires you to sit down and crunch some numbers. Here are the factors you should consider:

• The cost of repairing the crack in your heat exchanger versus the cost of a new furnace
• The life expectancy of your repaired furnace (which depends on how old your current furnace is) versus the life expectancy of a new furnace (10 to 15 years, on average)
• The operational and maintenance costs of your current furnace versus the operational and maintenance costs of a new furnace

That last point is particularly significant. By upgrading to a new, more efficient furnace, you can enjoy sustained savings on your energy costs. The furnaces being manufactured today are far more energy-efficient than the ones which were being made as recently as a decade ago, and you may find that the energy savings alone are enough to justify the replacement of your heating system.

If you’ve got a crack in your heat exchanger and need help figuring out whether to repair or replace your furnace, contact the pros at Roth Home & Cooling. We’ve been providing homeowners in the Portland area with outstanding service since 1976.

A dual-fuel system is one which combines the energy-saving power of a heat pump with a supplementary oil- or gas-powered furnace. These systems provide homeowners with a buffer against sub-freezing temperatures, which vastly reduce a heat pump’s heating capacity. While dual-fuel systems are excellent for the Pacific Northwest climate, you should still crunch the numbers to see if investing in one is worth your while.

Here are some facts you should collect and compare associated with dual-fuel heating systems. Get quotes for the following:

• If you have a natural gas or oil system currently installed, you can retrofit it to include a heat pump.
• A new installation, including a heat pump linked to an oil- or gas-powered furnace.
• Don’t forget the potential need to create new ductwork to accommodate the dual-fuel system. Costs should include materials and installation.

Next, consider the age of your home. If it’s an older house, you might need upgrades to ensure that safety of the electrical connections. However, remember that you may qualify for tax credits by upgrading to energy-efficient home technologies.

Remember that upgrade costs tell only part of the story. You will add to the resale value of your home by installing a dual-fuel system. It helps to consult a local real estate professional to determine the exact amount you stand to gain in this regard. Dual-fuel systems also have the potential to save you hundreds of dollars per year on your heating costs. Over time, the cost of the upgrade often ends up paying for itself in energy savings.

If you’d like further advice on dual-fuel home heating systems, or if you have any other residential HVAC questions or concerns, contact the home comfort experts at Roth Home & Cooling. We’ve been helping homeowners in the Portland area save money and live more comfortably since 1976.

Most homes are built with the minimum insulation required by building codes. If you’re looking to add insulation to your Portland home to prevent heat loss in the winter and heat gain in the summer, knowing what kind of insulation is best to use will save you money in the long run and make your home as energy efficient as possible.

Two types of insulation
The two most common home insulation types are fiberglass and cellulose. Fiberglass insulation is made from inorganic materials which are heated to the melting point and spun to form glass fibers. Cellulose insulation is made from recycled newspaper.

Comparing fiberglass and cellulose

• Settling: Insulation that settles over time loses its R-value, which measures the resistance to heat flow. Fiberglass insulation doesn’t settle and will maintain its R-value for the life of the building when it’s properly installed. Cellulose insulation settles over time and must be replenished in order to maintain its R-value.
• Fire safety: Fiberglass insulation is naturally fire-retardant and is, in fact, considered to be a fire stop in walls with wood frames. Cellulose insulation is highly combustible. To prevent fire hazards, it’s treated with chemicals that account for 20 percent of its makeup. These chemicals can corrode wiring over time and will eventually leach out of the insulation altogether, rendering it unsafe.
• Absorption: Fiberglass insulation is non-absorbent, but may need to be replaced if it becomes saturated. Cellulose insulation is highly absorbent and must be replaced if it becomes wet.
• Mold growth: Fiberglass insulation is inorganic and mold will not grow on it. Cellulose insulation is a food source for mold.
• Recycled materials: Fiberglass insulation is made up of at least 30 percent recycled materials. Cellulose is 80 percent recycled, but requires three times more material by weight to do the same job as fiberglass.

For more expert advice about home insulation types and what type is best for your home, please feel free to contact us at Roth Home & Cooling. We’ve served the Portland area with a high level of expertise and customer service since 1976.

Your forced-air furnace is a complex system of parts that work together to keep you warm and comfortable throughout the long winter months. Understanding what these parts are and how they function as part of the system is something that every homeowner should know about so they can recognize potential problems when they occur.

Here are the different parts contained within your forced-air furnace system along with an explanation of how they work together to heat your home.

• The building thermostat detects the current temperature in your home and turns the furnace burner on when the temperature drops below the settings you have programmed.
• The gas or oil burner is the heat source within your forced-air furnace. It turns on and off based on what you have programmed into the thermostat. It will run until the desired temperature is reached or until the fan limit is reached and the unit becomes too hot.
• The heat exchanger is a metal box where the hot combustion gases generated by the burner circulate and heat the metal up. These gases are then vented safely outside through a flue connected to the heat exchanger.
• The furnace blower draws cool air from the return vents throughout your home and blows this cool air across the heat exchanger before sending it back through the warm air ducts.
• The air ducts are the system of pipes that help carry cold air from the home toward the furnace and warm air from the furnace back through the home keeping you nice and cozy.
• A combination fan and limit control is the final component of the system. It serves to turn on and shut off your furnace at the temperatures you’ve set. It also serves as a safety control that will shut itself off if the temperature inside the furnace becomes unsafe.

For additional information or to schedule a tune-up for your forced-air furnace, contact the professional technicians at Roth Home & Cooling. For 35 years, we’ve proudly served the residents in and around the Portland area with their home heating needs and we want to make you our next satisfied customer.

Heat pumps provide energy-efficient heating for Portland area homeowners to a certain degree, and it’s that one degree — the balance point — where backup electric resistance heating takes over and efficiency is lost. The best balance point for your heat pump can be achieved by upgrading your home’s energy efficiency and scheduling professional preventive maintenance for your heat pump.

Home performance

The heating and cooling load of your home, which satisfies your comfort expectations, is affected by the quality and location of insulation, sealing up holes and cracks and improving other elements of home performance, such as efficient window coverings and using ceiling fans for energy savings and comfort.

A home energy evaluation by your HVAC professional is the first step to lowering the balance point, lowering utility bills and maximizing home comfort. Your HVAC professional reviews utility bills and discusses any heating and cooling issues.

Home performance testing includes a blower door test to find air leaks around windows, doors, cracks, wall apertures and in the ductwork. A thermographic scan uses infrared video to reveal inconsistent temperatures inside your home, which indicates insulation inconsistencies.

Heat pump performance

Your heat pump heats your home by extracting heat from outside air and releasing the heat inside your home. (The opposite heat exchange occurs for cooling your home.) This movement of heat is accomplished by instigating pressure changes within the refrigerant. This method of heating your home reaches 400 percent energy efficiency, according to Energy.gov.

However, to reach great efficiency rates and to maximize heating and cooling capacity, your heat pump requires regular maintenance to ensure refrigerant and airflow are optimized — the two primary components for efficient heat exchange.

Incorrect refrigerant charge, too much or too little, compromises heat exchange and stresses other components. Airflow that’s hindered for any number of reasons affects air pressure, home comfort, indoor air quality and increases energy costs.

Home efficiency upgrades and professional preventive maintenance ensure the best balance point for your heat pump, lower utility bills and optimal home comfort. To schedule preventive maintenance and an energy evaluation for your Portland area home, contact Roth Home & Cooling today.

Portland’s wet chilly winters don’t really gel with an open door/window policy. Air quality in a home closed up tightly can quickly deteriorate. Electronic air cleaners are a good way to combat the side effects of stale winter air in your home.  

Believe it or not, indoor air is often filled with harmful pollutants including dust, animal dander, mold, bacteria and even micro particles from running gas-fueled appliances such as your stove. If anyone in your household suffers from conditions such as asthma, COPD or allergies, dirty indoor ar can exacerbate their health issues. In addition, poor indoor air quality can make even healthy people more susceptible to colds and viruses. The EPA recommends the use of electronic air cleaners to improve the air quality inside your home.

Some electronic air cleaners use electrostatic energy to attract and trap small particles of pollutants in the air. They are efficient at removing dust, pollen, mold, and smoke from the air. Energy Star-qualified models use 40 percent less energy than other versions. A word to the wise – don’t rush out to purchase an electronic air cleaner before you take the time to do your research or get expert advice. There are a variety of electronic air cleaner options available, including whole-house systems, portable room systems, those that use HEPA filters and those that don’t. Some use entirely different technologies to clean your indoor air.

Luckily, you don’t have to trek through the giant landscape of electronic air cleaner options on your own. Contact Roth Home & Cooling for assistance in choosing the best electronic air cleaner for both your needs and budget.

In the winter, the air in your home tends to be drier than at other times of the year, typically because you’re running your HVAC (heating, ventilation and air conditioning) system’s heating components. An effective way of dealing with the many problems that dry air can cause is with a properly sized whole-house humidifier.

Here are some suggestions on how to size a humidifier and choose a system that will increase your home’s relative humidity and comfort.

The output of a humidifier is measured in the number of gallons of water that the humidifier can produce for absorption into the air during a 24-hour period, in gallons per day. Two main factors affect the necessary gallons per day, including the:

1. Size of area to be humidified, which will affect how much moisture the humidifier should be able to produce.
2. Tightness of the structure’s seal, which is how well the home is insulated and sealed against energy and moisture loss. A tight home has good levels of insulation, storm doors and windows installed, weatherstripping applied to reduce drafts, air and energy leaks sealed, fireplace dampers closed, and an effective vapor barrier in place.

On average, a tightly sealed home of 1,500 square feet should require a humidifier output of 3.2 gallons per day. An average home of the same size would need a humidifier output of 5.5 gallons per day, while a loose home would need 7.0 gallons per day.

As you are comparing home humidification systems, keep in mind the many problems that dry air can cause in your home, including:

• Uncomfortable physical effects, such as dry, itchy skin; irritated eyes and throats; nosebleeds; and respiratory issues.
• Increased amounts of static electricity, which is annoying to people, but downright dangerous for your delicate electrical equipment. One zap of static electricity can destroy it.
• Damage to wood furnishings, paneling, flooring and other wooden objects or construction features.
• Decreased comfort, since dry air makes you feel colder than the actual room’s temperature. This happens because dry air absorbs moisture from your skin, producing a cooling effect.

Roth Home & Cooling provides reliable, expert HVAC services to heating, cooling, plumbing and electrical customers in Portland, Bend, Salem and the surrounding areas in Oregon. Contact us today for more information whole-house humidification, how to size a humidifier, and for assistance in the correct method of how to size a humidifier for your home.

Clogged drains are probably the most common plumbing problem that homeowners experience. How do they occur? And how can you avoid them?

Here are some of the drain problems that you might experience and the steps that you can take to fix them before calling in a plumbing professional:

• Kitchen sinks: Most homeowners use their kitchen sinks to drain away cooking and food waste, and the residue from dish washing. Most commonly, grease, oil and fats in the drain pipes will cool and congeal in layers and eventually clog the drain system. Use a standard plunger with the rubber suction cup on the end to work sink clogs loose. Some commercially available drain-clearing chemicals may be helpful, but use them with caution. You also can try removing the J-bend under the sink, and clearing it and any pipes that you can reach. Prevent this problem by not pouring grease or similar substances down your drain.
• Bathroom sinks and tubs: Hair, dirt and soap residue are common sources of clogs in bathroom sinks and tubs. Block the waste and overflow plate with a cloth or your hand, and use a standard plunger to try to remove the clog. If necessary, insert a smaller-size wire or sink auger into the drain to break up the blockage.
• Toilets: Common causes of toilet clogs are trying to flush too much toilet tissue at one time, or flushing foreign items that are not toilet paper and waste, such as cigarettes, feminine hygiene products, or heavier-grade paper such as paper towels. A standard toilet plunger usually is enough to loosen clogs, but heavier blockages may require an auger, sometimes called a toilet snake. This is a length of wire with a cutting-style end that fits into the trap and drain. You crank or rotate the auger by hand, which breaks up the clog.

Roth Home & Cooling has proudly served the heating, cooling, plumbing and electrical needs of customers in Portland, Bend, Salem, Canby and the surrounding Oregon communities for more than 36 years. Contact us today for more information on solving drain problems, and for more tips on what you can do to keep your plumbing system clog-free and working like it should. Ask about our preventive maintenance plans for your HVAC (heating, ventilation and air conditioning) system, too.